Current Lineup: Zenith Watches
Zenith has a long history in watch manufacturing, dating all the way back to 1865. To add to its deep rooted lineage, Zenith was one of the pioneering companies for the inception of the automatic chronograph movement. While arguments surround Zenith having the “first automatic chronograph” as they were not the first to market, but possibly the first to conceptualize, Zenith did released the most complete and ahead of its time automatic chronograph just months after Seiko and Heuer. The El Primero movement is one that would go on to transcend time and mold the brand into what it is today.
Zenith’s long history of watchmaking has cemented them as a pioneer in watchmaking, with recent offerings from Zenith highlighting the brands innovation and willingness to step outside the traditional confines of watchmaking. From basic time only dress watches to double tourbillion chronograph pieces, Zenith has a watch for nearly every occasion and price point. Speaking of price, you will need to keep the checkbook on standby as the barrier to entry is right around the $6000 mark.
Zenith’s watches can be split into four main categories, with each of those categories having different models, sub-models, special editions, material offerings, styles, etc… Those four main categories are as follows:
Defy: Watches that step outside the traditional. This collection includes many high tech pieces that exhibit the companies ingenuity.
Chronomaster: Classic chronograph offerings as well as modern chronograph offerings.
Elite: Minimalistic dress style watches.
Pilot: Traditional big bold face pilots watches.
Defy Collection:
The Defy collection steps outside the normal bounds of what is considered a “traditional” watch. This series contains watches with various types of complications, uses an array of non-traditional materials such as carbon, titanium, and gold, has jewelry pieces with inset diamonds, and has a few tourbillion and “Zero G” options that are sure to turn a few heads.
Defy El Primero (18 Offerings):
The first on the list is the Defy El Primero. This watch is rather impressive from a mechanical perspective. The movement has two escapements, one for time and the other for the chronograph function. The first escapement operates at 36,000 beats per hour and is powered by the automatic stator. The second escapement operates at 360,000 beats per hour and operates the chronograph function which is strictly wound by manually winding the crown. With such a high frequency for the chronograph function this piece is able to have a resolution of 1/100th of a second, meaning the second hand makes one rotation of the dial every second. Being the main second hand counts in 1/100th of a second, a sub-dial positioned at 6 O’clock counts seconds to 60 and a supporting minute sub-dial in the 3 O’clock position counts minutes to 30. Traditional time is displayed with hours & minutes on center and seconds at the 9 O’clock sub-dial. These pieces are impressive both technologically and aesthetically with a variety of offerings tailored toward various preferences and price ranges.
Functions: 1/100th second chronograph, 30-min counter at 3 O’clock, 60-sec counter at 6 O’clock, chrono power reserve indicator, small seconds at 9 O’clock, time on center.
Materials (Case/Inlays): Carbon, ceramic, titanium, brilliant diamonds, 18K gold.
Components: 293
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (Time), 360,000 VpH (Chrono)
Power Reserve: 50 hours (Time), 50 Minutes (Chrono)
Price Range: $12500 to $47300
Defy Midnight (6 Offerings):
Geared toward women with the smaller 36mm case size, the Defy Midnight offers a minimalistic dial that wears as a nice jewelry piece with a starry dial that turns luminescent at night. Zeniths quick interchangeable strap system and optional diamond bezel makes the Midnight lineup very versatile to be worn on numerous occasions.
Functions: Time on center, date indication at 3 O’clock
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless steel & white diamonds
Components: 144
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $9000 to $11000
Defy Classic (17 Offerings):
The defy classic is a time/date watch that has various offerings regarding both materials and overall design aesthetics. While “Classic” would suggest possible mediocrity, that is not the case with this collection. The collection offers many interesting skeleton dials with exposed date wheels and internals, innovative materials such as carbon (the carbon option weighs in at 65 grams), and of course the casual rainbow baguette-cut sapphire bezel on a titanium case.
Functions: Time on center, date indication at 6 O’clock or at 3 O’clock (dependent on model).
Materials (Case/Inlays): Carbon, ceramic, titanium, 18K gold, white diamonds, rainbow diamonds.
Components: 187
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $6500 to $35900
Defy Fuse Tourbillion (2 Offerings):
Tourbillion watches are naturally “Rube Goldberg-esque”, completing the same function of telling time in the most complex way possible. As with all tourbillion style watches these pieces come with a hefty price tag starting at $83,300. Along with the complexity that is the tourbillion movement, this watch also has a more consistent power distribution through the entire power reserve thanks to the Fusee which is operated from the main spring. This watch is truly a technical masterpiece that is sure to have any mechanically astute person in awe.
Materials (Case/Inlay): Platinum & Carbon
Functions: Carriage at 6 O’clock (1 turn/min), Hours & Minutes in center, power reserve at 4:30 O’Clock, Fusee-chain transmission connected to barrel
Components: 807
Frequency: 36,000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $83300 to $106600
Defy Double Tourbillion (2 Offerings):
Like the tourbillion above the Defy Double Tourbillion also carries a hefty price, especially considering the added complexity of the chronograph function on the tourbillion piece. The chronograph complication does make this watch a bit more of a functional piece, operating with a similar output as the Defy El Primero above with a frequency of 360,000 VpH for the chronograph function allowing the watch to have a 1/100th of a second resolution (1 rotation of the hand every second). Like many of the higher end models this piece is available in a handful of exotic material offerings including the much desired platinum piece.
Functions: 30 minute 1/100th of a second chronograph, 60 sec counter at 6 O’clock, power reserve indicator at 12 O’clock, hour and minute on center, double tourbillion, 2 escapements (1 for the watch at 36,000 VpH and 1 for the Chrono at 360,000 VpH)
Materials (Case/Inlays): Carbon & platinum
Components: 311
Frequency: 36000 VpH (Watch) & 360,000 VpH (Chrono)
Power Reserve: 50 Hours (Watch) & 50 Minutes (Chrono)
Price Range: $116400 to $145200
Defy Zero G (4 Offerings):
The Defy Zero G is one of the most innovative watches from Zenith which features a module at 6 O’clock that is on a gyroscopic platform, meaning no matter what way it is turned the top of the module will always seek the upward position. This is similar to a gyroscopic camera that is used for action filming as a means to reduce overall camera movement. This unique offering is unlike any offering from other brands. However, aside from the “Gravity Control” and the all around mechanical masterpiece of a watch, the output is fairly basic only offering time with hours and minutes on center and seconds on a small 9 O’clock sub-dial. The last added benefit of this caliber of a watch is of course the material offerings; as expected this watch is offered in both Titanium and 18K gold.
Functions: Hours and minutes excentered at 12 O’clock, self-regulating gravity control module at 6 O’clock, small seconds at 9 O’clock, power reserve indicator at 2 O’clock
Materials (Case/Inlays): Titanium & 18K gold
Components: 324
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $102800 to $134900
Chronomaster:
The Chronomaster series follows a more contemporary route within the Zenith brand by paying homage to the classics and re-inventing them in a modern manner. There are various subsets within this line, each having their own unique offerings and individual price points. Without further ado lets dive into the Zenith Chronomaster lineup.
Chronomaster El Primero (8 Offerings):
An ode to the classic El Primero but with a modern renovation. This watch is a Hi-beat movement that has time with hours & minutes on center and a seconds hand in the 9 O’clock sub-dial. The main seconds hand references the 12 hour chronograph function and this movement has the addition of a date indication at 6 O’clock (slightly different than the original 4:30 O’clock position) and a tachymetric scale on the inner ring bezel. This watch is classically styled and tends to wear very well as a dressier watch especially with the 18K rose gold offering.
Functions: Central chronograph hands, 12 hour counter at 6 O’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 O’clock, hour and minute on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock, date indication at 6 O’clock.
Materials (Case/Inlays): 18K Rose Gold & Stainless Steel
Components: 326
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $7700 to $14600
Chronomaster El Primero Chronomaster 2 (2 Offerings):
The chronomaster 2 takes the El Primero to a new height by offering a 1/10th of a second chronograph function. This means that the main second hand for the chronograph function will rotate once every 10 seconds. Seconds are counted in the 3 O’clock sub-dial and minutes are counted up to 60 in the 6 O’clock sub-dial. The time function has small seconds at the 9 O’clock sub-dial with hours and minutes on center and a date indication at the 6 O’clock position. Aesthetically this watch steps a bit outside of traditional offering a somewhat exposed dial offering a look into some of the innards of the watch while keeping a somewhat contemporary solid 3 color sub-dial layout.
Functions: 1/10th of a second chronograph, 60 min counter at 6 O’clock, 60 sec counter at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock, date indicator at 6 O’clock.
Materials (Case/Inlays): Titanium & Ceramic
Components: 311
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 60 Hours
Price Range: $9600
Chronomaster El Primero Radar (1 Offering):
This piece is a special edition offering via a partnership between Zenith and Bramford Watch Department. Bramford is a company that specializes in watch customization, allowing the purchaser to select various color combinations of nearly every component to make it uniquely their own. While this piece may not suite everyone’s taste it does offer a design that is uniquely different from anything else seen in the Chronomaster lineup.
Functions: Central chronograph hand, 12 hour counter at 6 O’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock, tachymetric scale, date indication at 6 O’clock.
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless Steel
Components: 326
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Price Range: $7600
Chronomaster El Primero Open (19 Offerings):
Classically styled similar to that of the traditional Chronomaster El Primero with a hi-beat 12 hour chronograph. This piece sees the addition of an open heart allow a view into the beat of the watch from the front face. With the “Open” edition we do see the elimination a date window, meaning this watch is a time only watch with a chronograph function. Even though the date function is lost on this piece the open heart adds a mechanical aesthetic for those who appreciate the inner workings of a mechanical time piece.
Functions: Centeral chronograph hand, 12 hour counter at 6 O’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock, tachymetric scale.
Materials (Case/Inlays): 18K Rose Gold & Stainless Steel
Components: 282
Frequency: 36,000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $8700 to $19100
Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open (3 Offerings):
A step above the El Primero Open when it comes to the available complications. The Grande Date Full Open as the name suggest features a fully open dial allowing you to see into the movement from the front face. Additionally this piece has a date indicator at 2 O’clock and a moon & sun phase indicator at 6 O’clock. However, due to the addition of the moon phase this watch does not have a full 12 hour chronograph, falling short by only having a chronograph with a 30 minute sub-dial at 3 O’clock.
Functions: Central chronograph hand, 30 minute counter at 3 O’clock, moon and sun phase indicator, hours and minute on center, small second at 9 O’clock, date indicator at 2 O’clock
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless Steel & 18K Rose Gold
Components: 332
Frequency: 36,000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $10600 to $12200
Chronomaster Revival El Primero (8 Offerings):
The revival series from Zenith brings back a classic by paying homage to the El Primero of 1969, sporting the same 37mm diameter case. This piece comes in various editions, all of which feature a 12 hour chronographs with time on center and small seconds on the 9 O’clock sub-dial. All but one piece in this series sees the original date indicator position at 4:30, the “Revival Shadow” is the one that does not have a date indication (a rarity for the El Primero).
Functions: Central chronograph hand, 12 hour counter at 6 O’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock, tachymetric scale, date indication at 4:30 (except the Revival Shadow)
Materials (Case/Inlays): Titanium & stainless steel
Components: 278
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $7900 to $8400
Chronomaster Sport (4 Offerings):
A chronograph piece that blends formal dress and dress down together adding to the versality of how the piece can be worn. This watch is similar to the Chronomaster 2 in that it features a 1/10th of a second chronograph meaning the central hand sweeps the full dial once every 10 seconds. Seconds to 60 are added up in the sub-dial at 3 O’clock and minutes are counted to 60 in the 6 O’clock sub-dial. As far as time, hour and minutes are on center with small second in the 9 O’clock sub-dial and date indication at 4:30. The most noticeable difference with this piece is the commanding ceramic bezel that has a 1/10th of a second gradient scale. This is what give the watch is sporty appearance, similar to how a bezel on a dive watch gives it it’s sporty appearance.
Functions: 1/10th of a second chronograph, 60 minute counter at 6 O’clock, 60 second counter at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small seconds at 9 O’clock
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless Steel & Ceramic
Components: 311
Frequency: 36000 VpH
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Price Range: $9500 to $10000
Elite:
Elite Moonphase (6 Offerings):
This dress watch style piece offers a minimalistic design having hour indices with no numerical denominations. To add a bit of flare to the dial a moon phase complication is located at 6 O’clock and a small second’s dial is at the 9 O’clock position rather than a standard on center hand. This piece is offered in both 40.5mm and 36mm diameter options tailoring it toward both men and women.
Functions: Hours and minutes on center, moon phase indication at 6 O’clock, small seconds at 9 O’clock.
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless steel, 18K Rose Gold, Diamonds
Components: 195
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $7000 to $17000
Elite Classic (6 Offerings):
A minimalistic dress watch with all time on center and a date display at the 6 O’clock position. This watch offers a level of simplistic beauty and is offered in both a 40.5mm and a 36mm diameter case. The 40.5mm options remain fairly standard while the 36mm options see some additional inset diamonds around the bezel making it a bit of a jewelry piece.
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds on center, date indication at 6 O’clock.
Materials (Case/Inlays): Stainless Steel, 18K Rose Gold, Diamonds,
Components: 144
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $6000 to $16100
Pilot
Pilot Type 20 (8 Offerings):
A ode to a classically styled pilot’s watch with time centrally located, very legible time indications, a very large face, plenty of lume, and the infamous oversized crown at 3 O’clock. This piece is offered in both a 45mm and 40mm case size and is offered with either a steel case or a bronze casing that takes on a different level of patina compared to any other material.
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds on center
Materials (Case/Inlays): Bronze & Stainless Steel
Components: 126
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $6300 to $8200
Pilot Type 20 Chronograph (5 Offerings):
This piece is similar to the standard type 20 with regards to the large dial, luminescence, bold numericals, and oversized crown. However the chronograph version sees an increased movement frequency of 36,000 VpH to provide the needed accuracy. Though the addition of the chronograph adds an additional level of information to the dial, Zenith does a decent job in allowing the dial to still be legible by only making it a 30 minute chronograph counted in the 3 O’clock sub-dial with normal seconds on the 9 O’clock sub-dial. This minimal clutter allows the Pilot 20 Chronograph to stay true to the essence of a pilots watch.
Functions: Central chronograph hand, 30 minute subdial at 3 O’clock, hours and minutes on center, small second at 9 O’clock
Materials (Case/Inlays): Brass, Silver, Stainless Steel
Components: 254
Frequency: 36,000 VpH
Power Reserve: 50 Hours
Price Range: $7900 to $10000