Hamilton Khaki Navy: The Affordable Tool Watch

The Hamilton Khaki has been a staple in watch culture and is arguably one of the best bang for your buck watches available on the market. While people recognize the Khaki for their notorious Khaki Field Mechanical offering, the Khaki lineup is much more expansive, having 3 different model categories: the Khaki Field, the Khaki Navy, and the Khaki Aviation. Each of these categories have various offerings which seem endless, leaving the consumer perplexed when attempting to find the watch that suites their needs. In this article we will clear the confusion by breaking down each Khaki model and it’s various offerings, attempting to simplify the lineup and aid in finding the watch that optimally suites you.

Khaki Navy:

For the last installment we are reviewing the Khaki Navy; This model is the least expansive of the three Khaki lineups but features some of the most robust and functional pieces. With a name like “Navy”, most of the pieces naturally have a dive watch styling que while a few mimic the styling of early maritime clocks. Within the lineup there are an array of different automatic pieces, one quartz model, and no manual wind time pieces. Complications are left rather simplistic while subbing in features that make the pieces durable, easy to read, and highly water resistance. All in all, the Khaki Navy lineup is designed for those wanting a functional watch that does not skimp on durability or practicality.

Automatic Pieces:

Scuba Auto:

The first watch on the list and one of the most traditional dive oriented pieces is the Scuba Auto. In the Scuba Auto lineup there are two different variants. The first variant is a 40mm watch that has time on center and a date display between 4&5 O’clock. The second variant is a 43mm watch that features time only on center. Aside from the difference in complications, the 43mm option comes with a superior 300m of water resistance compared to the 100m offered on the 40mm variant. True to the dive watch, both variants feature a uni-directional rotating bezel, high visibility, and plenty of lume. Both variants use the Hamilton H-10 movement featuring an 80 hour power reserve while oscillating at 21600 Vph. Featured in only stainless steel these pieces are offered for a price ranging from $695 to $995.

Functions:

  • Type 1:

    • All time on center

  • Type 2:

    • All time on center

    • Date display between 4 & 5 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 40mm & 43mm

Frequency: 21600 Vph

Movement: H-10

Power Reserve: 80 Hours

Price Range: $695 to $995

Frogman Auto:

The Frogman Auto is a highly robust dive watch that pays homage to the original Frogman watch created and used in the 1951 film “The Frogmen”. The Frogman Auto’s current lineup has two variants, both of which feature time on center and a date display between 4&5 O’clock thanks to the Hamilton H-10 movement. Where the watch variants differ is in the case; the first variant is a 42mm stainless steel watch featuring a 300m water resistance rating. The second variant is a larger 46mm titanium watch featuring an impressive 1000m water resistance rating. While there are distinctive differences in the encasement of the two variants, both still have dive watch DNA featuring a uni-directional rotating bezel, highly visible indices, plenty of lume, and the iconic detachable screw down crown. This watch retails for $1095 for the stainless steel variant and $1445 for the titanium variant.

Functions:

  • All time on center

  • Date display between 4 & 5 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel & Titanium

Case Size(s): 42mm and 46mm

Frequency: 21600 Vph

Movement: H-10

Power Reserve: 80 Hours

Price Range: $1095 to $1445

Pioneer Auto:

The Pioneer series watches are much less robust in reference to the rest of the Khaki Navy lineup, but have design ques remanence of original maritime clocks. In comparison to the rest of the lineup, functionality and robustness is lost in the absence of features such as no bezel, no lume, and of course a reduced water resistance of 100m (compared to 300m to 1000m on other models). While these downside are in regard to the functionality of the watch, the watch is stylistically well done, providing a rather legible and minimalistic dial layout. The Pioneer Auto utilizes the Hamilton H-10 automatic movement which has all time on center and a date display at the 3 O’clock register. This simplistic movement is featured in a 43mm stainless steel case for a price of $995.

Functions:

  • All time on center

  • Date display at 3 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 43mm

Frequency: 21600 Vph

Movement: H-10

Power Reserve: 80 Hours

Price Range: $995

Pioneer Small Seconds Auto

Similar to the styling of the watch above, the Pioneer Small Seconds Auto features time on center with a small seconds sub-dial at 6 O’clock and a date display at the 3 O’clock register, all thanks to the ETA 2895-2 movement. As described above, the watch naturally lacks some functionally in relation to the other Khaki Navy pieces being that it is a Pioneer series. Regardless of the shortcomings this watch comes in a beautiful 40mm case on stainless steel for a price of $1095.

Functions:

  • Time on center w/small seconds at 6 O’clock

  • Date display at 3 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 40mm

Frequency: 28800 Vph

Movement: ETA 2895-2

Power Reserve: 50 Hours

Price Range: $1095

Pioneer Auto Chrono:

The Pioneer Auto Chrono is the most complex piece in the Pioneer subset featuring a chronograph, a date display, and of course standard time. Chronograph time is shown with hours at 6 O’clock, minutes at 12 O’clock, and seconds on center. Standard time is shown on center (hours and minutes only) with a date display at the 3 O’clock register. The H-21 movement used within this watch has a power reserve of 60 hours while operating at 28800 Vph. All of this is offered in a 44mm stainless steel case for $1895.

Functions:

  • Chronograph w/minutes at 12 O’clock, hours at 6 O’clock, and seconds on center

  • Date display at 3 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 44mm

Frequency: 28800 Vph

Movement: H-21

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Price Range: $1895

BeLOWZERO Auto

Moving back into robust watches we get into the BeLOWZERO Auto which is offered in two different variants. The first variant has time on center and a date display at the 3 O’clock location. This variant features the ETA 2826-2 movement contained within a 46mm stainless steel case having 1000m of water resistance. The second variant has time only on center and features the Hamilton H-10 movement contained within the 46mm titanium case having 1000m of water resistance. Both watches are coated with PVD black and have a stealth appearance thanks to the matching color of the indices. These watches are offered with a price ranging from $1845 to $2095.

Functions:

  • Type 1:

    • All time on center

  • Type 2

    • All time on center

    • Date display at 3 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel PVD Black & Titanium PVD Black

Case Size(s): 46mm

Frequency: 21600 & 28800 Vph

Movement: H-10 & ETA 2826-2

Power Reserve: 80 Hours & 42 Hours

Price Range: $1845 to $2095

Sub Auto Chrono:

The last automatic watch of the list is the Sub Auto Chrono; this piece follows the route of dive watch DNA, similar to the Scuba Auto above. However, unlike the Scuba Auto this piece is quite a bit busier on the dial due to the added chronograph complication. On this piece chronograph time is shown with hours at 6 O’clock, minutes at 3 O’clock, and seconds on center. Standard time is shown on center with small seconds at the 9 O’clock sub-dial and a date display between 4&5 O’clock. Aside from the complications this watch features a uni-directional rotating bezel, oversized numerals, and 300m of water resistance. All of this is offered in a 43mm stainless steel encasement for a price of $1995.

Functions:

  • Chronograph w/ minutes at 3 O’clock, hours at 6 O’clock, and seconds on center

  • Standard time on center

  • Date display between 4 & 5 O’clock

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 43mm

Frequency: 28800 Vph

Movement: H-31

Power Reserve: 60 Hours

Price Range: $1995

Quartz Options:

Scuba Quartz:

The Scuba Quartz is a stand alone offering within the Khaki Navy lineup and is relatively similar in design to the Scuba Auto. This piece is time only thanks to the F06.105 quartz movement and features many of the dive characteristics such as the uni-directional rotating bezel, circular indices, and plenty of lume. All of this is offered in a smaller 37mm stainless steel case for a lower price ranging from $495 to $625.

Functions:

  • All time on center

Materials: Stainless Steel

Case Size(s): 37mm

Frequency: N/A

Movement: F06.105

Power Reserve: N/A

Price Range: $495 to $625

What is your ideal pick from the Hamilton Khaki Navy lineup? Let us know in the comments.

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Hamilton Khaki Aviation: The Affordable Tool Watch