If you are familiar with Seiko than you are familiar with their expansive line of highly affordable dive watches. That being said, you may have noticed that aside from the affordable watches there are a host of watches in the Prospex line that are significantly higher in price, in fact upwards of $6000. You may be asking your self “what’s the difference? What makes a $6000 Seiko worth that price? Or why is a Seiko breaking into the barrier of entry into top brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Grand Seiko”. Without further hesitation let’s dive in (pun intended) and see what separates a $6000 Seiko dive watch from a $850 Seiko dive watch.

The Watches

Seiko SNR029

Seiko SPB103

The Dials:

Being the main attraction of any watch, we will start with the dial. The difference in the dials offers many points of contention that separate the $6000 Seiko from the $850 Seiko. The SNR029 has a significantly higher level of detail, some details are apparent at first glance and while others are a bit more subtle. The SPB103 while similar in its general silhouette, pales in comparison when compared side by side to the SNR029.

Beginning with the functionality of the watches; Both watches are true to their dive watch nature, both having a unidirectional rotating bezel, plenty of lume on the hands and hour indications, time displayed in hours, minutes and seconds, and the date display at the 3 O’clock positions. The SNR029 offers an additional complication with a power reserve indication above the 7 and 8 O’clock position. This addition works well on the dial from an aesthetics perspective and seems somewhat necessary for a professional series watch if it is going to be used as intended, for diving. While some may think the power reserve crowds the dial a bit it tends to work because the watch is so large.

Though the complications are similar, the details on the SPB103 pale in comparison to the SNR029. The rectangular hour indications at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O’clock locations on the SNR029 have a metal exterior that is impressively finished with a linear streak pattern fading between dark and light gray. The SPB103 does not shake a stick at this level of detail, having only polished indices that lack the level of depth seen on the higher priced Seiko. The lume on the SNR029 seems more carefully applied, as it stays receded below the metal exteriors, maintaining the sharp edge detail on each index. Contrary the lume on the SPB103 almost seems to round out the edges on indices where it is applied, which takes away from the detail of the piece.

Another apparent difference is the date display at the 3 O’clock positions. The SPB103’s date window has a white painted box highlighting the exterior of the cutout window. While this works with the design of the watch, it is not to the level of detail of the SNR029 which highlights the date cutout using the linearly streaked metal trim exterior, pulling in the design cues of the other indices on the dial.

The SNR029 offers another level of depth if we look closer at the dial. Both dials have an outer gradient scale on the dial that is tapered and angled upward form the dial surface. If we look at the hour indices on the SNR029, each index is interrupting the tapered outer scale as individual cutouts are made to accept each hour index. The SPB103 lacks this level of detail, the hour indices are intentionally located further inboard on the dial as to not interrupt the outer angled bezel. This is a clear level of detail that is left out on the SPB103 due to budget, but a detail that offers additional depth and quality to the SNR029.

The color of the dials both work well with the watch design. The SPB103 has a deep green that tries to imitate that of a Rolex Submariner Hulk, and the SNR029 has a deep black that contrasts well to highlight the important dial features and details. The portion that the SNR029 does better is with the texturing of the background. The black color on the dial has an almost gunpowder like look that gleams slightly; it is a level of depth that isn’t offer on the cheaper SPB103.

The last dial detail that is worth mentioning and perhaps the most important is of course, the hands. While this is the last to mention it is one of the most apparent difference between the watches. The hands on the SNR029 are clearly superior, the edges come to intersecting sharp points, has finely beveled edges and has a beautiful linear brushed finish on the top surface. The SPB103 really lacks in this department; the corners are somewhat rounded off, the finishing minimal, and the center rivet is showing on the center of the hand whereas the SNR029 hides this with an integrated cap on top the seconds hand.

The Bezel:

Moving from the dial outward, we find ourselves at the bezel. Naturally, both bezels are true to the dive watch, having unidirectional rotation and nearly identical gradient number scales. While the bezels similar graduations and numbering schemes make them look similar at face, they are in fact very different. This is immediately apparent when looking at the side profile of the watches. The SNR029 has a bezel that is protruded from the case itself while the bezel on the SPB103 is partially receded into the case; this in turn gives the SNR029 it’s thicker profile. With the SNR029 being a “professional series” watch it has to maintain a high standard for functionality. Part of this usability comes into play with the bezel which has deep hexagonal cutouts around the entire circumference on the bezel making it easy to grip and rotate under any circumstance. Conversely, the bezel on the SPB103 looses some of its functionality due to less pronounced cutouts and the bezel being receded into the case.

Aside from the bezel style and geometry, the lume application on these watches is slightly different. Both watches have similar lume on the dials, indices and hands however the SNR029 sees additional lumebrite on the bezel at the 10 minute and 20 minute indicator, and the 5 and 15 minute hashmarks between. This is a detail that is not offered on the SPB103 which only offers lume on the circular bezel marker. Beyond the additional lume, the SNR029 bezel is made of ceramic which makes it essentially scratch-proof unlike the SPB103 which has a painted steel bezel.

The Case/Bracelet:

As we have already stressed, these watches have a rather large presence with the SNR029 and SPB103 coming in at 44.8mm and 45mm in diameter respectively. Both watches share similar design ques that are true the nature of a dive watch, combining a similar looking uni-directional bezel, similar looking dial indications, and an offset 4 O'clock crown position.

As mentioned above the SNR029 is a bit more case thickness than that of the SPB103 which is primarily attributed to the raised bezel versus the receded bezel of the later. This gives the SNR029 a larger presence that in all honesty works well with the quality of the piece, assuming your wrist is large enough to compliment it.

The SNR029 is equipped with a titanium case and bracelet which has a hardened coating on the exterior to prevent scratching. This means that even though this watch is relatively large in overall size, it will be relatively light thanks to the material properties of titanium. The SPB103 sees a stainless steel case and bracelet which is standard on majority of Seiko's and other watches for that matter.

An interesting function on the bracelet of the SNR029 is the solid slide adjuster that is offered on the three-fold clasp. This feature allows the clasp to freely slide it’s position when opened to either make the bracelet large or smaller. This function is one that separates this as a true functional dive watch as the original intention of the slide adjusted is to allow the watch to fit over a wet suit and then back on the wrist without having to remove or add any links. While most people that wear this are likely to be a “Desk Diver” it is a nice feature that you may find yourself using if you need to adjust your band from the wrist shrink that comes in the changing of seasons. The SPB103 does not have the slide adjusted but does offer a similar three-fold clasp with secure lock , push button release, and a simple dive extender that lacks in adjustability.

The Movements:

SNR029 Movement: 5R65

The SNR029 has a Seiko 5R65 movement. This is an automatic Spring Drive movement with a 70 hour power reserve and 28,800 vibrations per hour. This movement is extremely accurate for a “mechanical” watch having a claimed accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month (-10 to +60 degrees C). The movement in the SNR029 is another feature that puts this watch in the upper tier. The Spring Drive movement is typically used in Grand Seiko watches and combines mechanical movements with electromagnetic components that aid in regulating the rate at which the watch rotates. This lends itself too its unparalleled accuracy and smooth sweeping seconds hand.

Caliber Number: 5R65

Movement Type: Automatic

Jewels: 30

Power Reserve: 70+ hours

Vibrations Per Hour: 28,800 VPH

Hand-Windable? Yes

Hacking? Yes

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Central Seconds, Date at 3:00, and Power Reserve

Country of Manufacture: Japan

Accuracy: +/- 15 seconds per month (-10 ~ +60 degrees C)

SPB103 Movement: 6R35

The movement in the SPB103 is much less impressive than the Spring Drive seen in the SNR029. It’s still an automatic movement having a power reserve of 70 hours with a lesser 21,600 vibrations per hour. The movement maintains an adequate level of accuracy with a rating of -15/+25 seconds per day. That being said, if you are like me the last consideration I have with my watch is its accuracy rating. If the accuracy of a watch was my top priority I would be wearing a quartz watch, and yet I seldom find myself wearing one.

Caliber Number: 6R35

Movement Type: Automatic

Jewels: 24

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Vibrations Per Hour: 21,600 VPH

Hand-Windable? Yes

Hacking? Yes

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Central Second Hand, Date at 3:00

Country of Manufacture: Japan

Accuracy: -15/+25 seconds per day (between 5 – 35 degrees C)

Drop a comment below and let us know what you think about these watches.

References:

Corner, C. (2020, November 23). Seiko Caliber 6R35 Watch Movement • Caliber Corner. Caliber Corner • Watch Movement Caliber Specs and Information Wiki. https://calibercorner.com/seiko-caliber-6r35/

Corner, C. (2020b, December 19). Seiko Caliber 5R65 Watch Movement • Caliber Corner. Caliber Corner • Watch Movement Caliber Specs and Information Wiki. https://calibercorner.com/seiko-caliber-5r65/

www.Seikowatches.com

Seiko: $6000 vs. $850 Watch

The Watches

Seiko SNR029

Seiko SPB103

The Dials:

The Bezel:

The Case/Bracelet:

SNR029

Case Size:

SPB103

Case Size:

The Movements:

SNR029 Movement: 5R65

SPB103 Movement: 6R35

References:

Seiko: $6000 vs. $850 Watch

The Watches

Seiko SNR029

Seiko SPB103

The Dials:

The Bezel:

The Case/Bracelet:

SNR029

Case Size:

SPB103

Case Size:

The Movements:

SNR029 Movement: 5R65

SPB103 Movement: 6R35

References:

Made in America Watches

5 Automatic Watches Under $500